Residential and commercial
Cooktop Repair in Northern Virginia, DC & Maryland
A cooktop is the unit set into your countertop, with the oven somewhere else or not at all. We do cooktop repair across Northern Virginia, Washington DC and Maryland on built-in gas, electric radiant and induction tops, downdraft models included: dead zones, zones stuck on high, pans an induction zone will not detect, touch controls that ignore you, clicking igniters and cracked glass, on GE, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Bosch, Thermador, Samsung and Frigidaire. If your burners sit on top of a freestanding range, the stove page is the one you want.
- $89 visit, credited to the repair
- 90-day parts & labor warranty
- Same-day most days
- Someone answers 24/7
What usually goes wrong
Cooktop problems, in the order we see them
The symptom you notice, and what it most probably is.
- 1
The whole cooktop is dead: no lights, no beep, nothing responds
Most probably
- The control lock is on: look for a padlock icon and hold it for three seconds
- The breaker has tripped, or one half of the 240-volt supply has dropped out
- The power board that feeds the controls has failed
- The touch-control board under the glass has died, taking every zone with it
- 2
One zone on a radiant cooktop is dead, the others work
Most probably
- The radiant element under the glass has burned open. From above there is nothing to see
- The limiter clipped to that element has failed and cuts the power before the element warms
- The switch behind the knob, or the relay on the control board, that feeds that zone
- A connector at the element has loosened or scorched
- 3
A radiant zone is stuck on high and scorching along the trim
Most probably
- The contacts in the infinite switch behind the knob have welded shut
- A relay on the control board is stuck closed
- The limiter no longer cuts the element back. Switch the breaker off until it is fixed
- 4
An induction zone will not detect the pan, or keeps dropping out
Most probably
- The pan is not magnetic: aluminum, copper and some stainless steel will not work on induction
- The pan is too small for the zone, or sitting off center
- A chip or crack in the glass over that zone
- The pan-detection circuit on that zone's power module has failed
- 5
Touch controls ignore you, or beep and act on their own
Most probably
- The control lock is on
- Water, steam or a spill on the glass over the control pad. Wipe it dry and try again
- A crack in the glass near the controls
- The touch-control board under the glass has failed; on many tops it is bonded to the glass
- 6
The glass is cracked or chipped
Most probably
- Thermal shock: a cold, heavy pan on a hot zone, or cold liquid on hot glass
- Impact: a dropped pot, or a can falling from the shelf above
- A pan dragged across the glass with grit under it
- 7
The cooktop shuts itself off mid-cook, or the fan underneath is loud
Most probably
- On induction, the cooling fan has failed or is choked with dust, so the electronics overheat
- The cabinet under the cooktop is packed full and the vents cannot breathe
- The temperature sensor on the power module is reading wrong
- On a downdraft unit, the blower motor or a clogged grease filter
- 8
A gas burner clicks and clicks but will not light, or keeps clicking after it lights
Most probably
- Water or food around the spark electrode after a cleaning or a boil-over
- The burner cap is not seated straight on the burner head
- An igniter switch behind one knob has shorted, which fires the spark on every burner
- A cracked electrode
- On cooktops that relight themselves, a spark module that no longer senses the flame
- 9
Yellow, weak or uneven flames on a gas burner
Most probably
- Burner ports clogged with grease, soot or a boil-over
- The cap or the burner head is off center and blocks the air mix
- The air shutter is set too far closed
- A dirty orifice, or the wrong orifice for the gas the house has
By brand
Cooktop brands we work with
Independent repair for every major make. We are not affiliated with or authorized by any manufacturer.
Cooktop repair by brand
GE cooktop repair
On GE, Profile and Café radiant tops it is usually one zone gone dead: the element under the glass or its limiter. On dual-ring zones the outer ring can quit while the inner still heats. Profile induction tops have touch and glide controls under the glass, so a control fault there means a board or the glass assembly, not a knob.
GE appliance repairWhirlpool cooktop repair
Whirlpool radiant cooktops are the plain glass tops, knob or touch controlled. What fails is an element burned open under the glass, with nothing to see from above, as on one in Annandale; a limiter; or a zone that sticks on high and scorches along the trim, which is the switch behind that knob.
Whirlpool appliance repairKitchenAid cooktop repair
Many KitchenAid cooktops have touch controls bonded to the glass, so when the glass goes it goes as an assembly. The warning signs come first: touch controls that stop responding, an induction zone that will not detect a pan, a cooktop that shuts itself off. On one in Falls Church the glass top had failed outright and the unit was replaced.
KitchenAid appliance repairBosch cooktop repair
On Bosch induction cooktops, the 500, 800 and Benchmark series, the electronics are what fail: a power module that takes out the zones it drives or shuts the top down with an error, or the cooling fan under the glass that protects it. A fan gone loud is the early warning. Bosch gas cooktops get wet or shorted igniter switches and cracked electrodes.
Bosch appliance repairThermador cooktop repair
Thermador gas cooktops use Star burners that relight themselves and an ExtraLow simmer that cycles the flame on and off by design, so an occasional click on ExtraLow is normal. Constant clicking on every burner is a wet or shorted switch or the spark module. Thermador induction tops come from the same maker as Bosch and fail the same way.
Thermador appliance repairSamsung cooktop repair
Samsung induction cooktops project blue LED flames onto the pan, brighter as the setting goes up. A missing light is an LED fault, not a heating fault. The heating side is standard induction: a zone that stops detecting pans, or a top that cuts out, is a power module or the cooling fan.
Samsung appliance repairFrigidaire cooktop repair
Most Frigidaire radiant cooktops are knob-controlled, so the infinite switch behind the knob is a suspect alongside the element. A zone stuck on high, or one that works only on high, is usually that switch; a zone that never heats is the element or its limiter. Frigidaire gas cooktops get the usual igniter-switch and electrode faults.
Frigidaire appliance repair
The visit
What happens when the technician comes
A cooktop is worked on from underneath as much as from above, so empty the cabinet below it before we come: the junction box or gas valve and the underside of the unit are in there. Clear the counter on both sides too, because for an element, a limiter or a fan the top is lifted out of the cutout and set down next to it.
A radiant element, a switch or an igniter part is usually about an hour of work. A glass assembly or an induction power module is made for your exact model, so it is ordered and the technician comes back to fit it. The model tag is on the underside of the unit.
If the cooktop is on an island, say so when you call. Arrival is a 2-hour window with a call about 15 minutes out, and nothing is ordered or replaced until you have heard the full price and said yes.
What waiting costs you
A zone stuck on high scorches the trim and can burn anyone who leans on the counter; switch its breaker off now. A cracked glass top lets the next boil-over drip onto the boards underneath, and a glass job becomes a glass-and-board job. A yellow flame is gas burning badly: soot on the pans and carbon monoxide in the room every time you cook. An induction board that cuts out now and then tends to end up cutting out for good. A failed cooling fan cooks the power module it was there to protect. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas utility first.
$89 visit, credited to the repair. 90-day parts-and-labor warranty.
Repair or replace
Repair your cooktop, or replace it?
Repair it when
- The fault is a radiant element, a limiter, a switch, an igniter part, a spark module or a cooling fan. These are fixable at almost any age.
- The glass is cracked, but the maker still sells the glass assembly for your model.
- It fits a cutout in a stone or solid-surface counter. A new unit must fit that hole, or the counter has to be recut.
- It is an induction top where one power module failed and the module is still made.
Replace it when
- The glass is cracked and the touch controls are bonded to it, or the glass for your model is no longer made.
- An induction power module has failed on an older unit and the maker has stopped supplying it.
- The repair costs more than half the price of a new cooktop that fits your cutout.
- A boil-over through cracked glass has already reached the boards, so it is glass plus electronics.
Before you buy, measure the hole. Cooktops come in 30- and 36-inch widths, but the cutout differs from model to model even at the same width. Going from radiant to induction can need a heavier 240-volt circuit, and gas needs a gas line plus a 120-volt outlet under the counter. We install the new cooktop too.
Gas, radiant, induction: three different machines
A gas cooktop is sealed burners, a valve behind each knob, an electrode at each burner and one spark module firing them all. Nearly everything that goes wrong is at the burner: caps, ports, electrodes, switches. A radiant cooktop heats an element under the glass, each with a limiter that protects the glass; elements burn open, limiters fail, knob switches wear out. An induction cooktop heats the pan itself, so the electronics do the work and the electronics fail: a power module, pan detection, the cooling fan. The top of an induction range is the same machine, covered under induction range repair.
Downdraft cooktops
A downdraft cooktop has a blower built into the unit that pulls smoke and steam down through a grease filter and out through a duct in the cabinet, so there is no hood overhead. That packs a fan, a duct and the heating side into one cutout: more to fail, less room to reach it. When the draw is weak, a grease filter that has not been cleaned in years is the first suspect, then the blower motor. JennAir is the name most people know for these. The fan side and the heating side are looked at on the same visit. If your kitchen vents upward instead and that fan has quit, see range hood repair.
Worth checking before you call
Induction zone refusing a pan: hold a fridge magnet to the base; if it does not grip, the pan is the problem, not the cooktop. Touch controls acting up: wipe the glass over them dry and look for a padlock icon, which means the control lock is on. Whole top dead: switch its breaker fully off and back on once. If it trips again, leave it off; our guide covers what to do when an appliance trips the breaker. Gas burner clicking: let it dry and seat the cap straight. Do not cook on cracked glass, and if a zone is stuck on high, switch the breaker off and leave it off.
Recent repairs
Some cooktop repairs we have done
Maytag cooktop repair in McLean
In McLean, a freestanding electric range with a glass cooktop was not heating right. Our technician found the cause, made the repair, and left with the oven and…In McLean, a freestanding electric range with a glass cooktop was not heating right. Our technician found the cause, made the repair, and left with the oven and every burner working again. On these ranges it is usually a failed heating element, a bad burner switch, or the control board.
KitchenAid cooktop repair in Falls Church
The glass top on a KitchenAid cooktop in Falls Church had failed outright, so our technician swapped it for a new unit. These usually give some warning before…The glass top on a KitchenAid cooktop in Falls Church had failed outright, so our technician swapped it for a new unit. These usually give some warning before it gets that far: touch controls that stop responding, a zone that will not detect a pan, and the cooktop shutting itself off.
Cooktop repair in McLean
An electric downdraft cooktop in McLean stopped heating. Our technician went out and fixed it.
Whirlpool cooktop repair in Annandale
On a Whirlpool cooktop in Annandale, one radiant element had burned open under the glass. From the top there is nothing to see — the burner is simply…On a Whirlpool cooktop in Annandale, one radiant element had burned open under the glass. From the top there is nothing to see — the burner is simply dead. The other two we run into on these are an element stuck on high and scorching along the trim.
Google reviews
What people said after a cooktop repair
- SD
Stuart Dornfeld
August 2026 · gas stove
The is my 2nd time using FixDaddy. The first time was to repair my LG washing machine. This time it was to repair my Creda gas stove. Scheduling was easy. They showed up on time. Provided excellent service. I will use them again.
- GH
Gary Hauler
June 2026 · dryer
Very professional service. Quick to respond to request and came when they said. Though I didn't have them fix my issue (I realized I should probably just buy a new dryer as there were some unknowns) there was no hard sell of any extra service.
- KI
Kemale Ismayilli
February 2026 · Bosch dishwasher
I was looking for a local Bosch specialist near me in Arlington, and found FixDaddy. They fixed my Dishwasher on the spot! Super fast and professional. If you need a reliable technician in the DMV, this is the one!
- TW
Troy Wilson
June 2026 · Perlick refrigerator
Scheduled same day service to troubleshoot my Perlick Refrigerator. The technician came out in under 2 hours and diagnosed the problem quickly. Very impressed with the service.
5.0105 reviews
Every review on this page is copied from our public Google profile, word for word.
FAQ
Cooktop repair: frequently asked questions
Is a cooktop the same thing as a stove?
No. A cooktop is dropped into the countertop with no oven under it, and the oven is usually a separate built-in, which is wall oven repair. A stove or range is one unit with the oven below the burners; for those burners see stove repair. A cooktop is serviced from the cabinet underneath and has to fit a cutout in the counter, which changes both the repair and the replace question.
My induction cooktop says no pan, but the pan is right there. Is it broken?
Maybe not. Induction only heats pans with iron in them. Hold a fridge magnet to the bottom of the pan; if it does not grip, the cooktop is doing what it is meant to. If a magnetic pan is refused on one zone and accepted on another, that zone's power module or the glass above it is the suspect, and that is worth a visit.
Can you replace just the glass, or do I need a new cooktop?
Often just the glass. Cracked glass cannot be repaired, but the maker usually sells it as an assembly for your model, and the technician fits it after checking that the spill did not reach the boards underneath. When the touch controls are bonded to the glass, or the glass for an older model is no longer made, the honest answer is a new unit, and you hear that at the visit, not as a guess on the phone.
What does the visit cost?
The visit fee is $89. The technician finds what is wrong and gives you the full repair price in your kitchen, with no pressure to go ahead. If you do, the $89 counts toward the repair. Nobody quotes a repair price before seeing the cooktop, because a dead zone can be an element or a board and those are not the same job.
My gas burner keeps clicking after it lights. Is that dangerous?
Usually it is a nuisance, not a danger: a wet or dirty electrode, a cap that is not seated, or an igniter switch that has shorted, so the module keeps sparking. Clicking with no flame is a different matter, because gas is leaving the burner with nothing lighting it. Turn the knob off, air the room, and stop trying. Cooktops with re-ignition click on purpose now and then to relight a flame that has gone out.
Does the warranty cover the part or the labor?
Both. Every repair has a 90-day parts-and-labor warranty. If a radiant element, a spark module or an induction power module we fitted fails inside those 90 days, the technician comes back under the warranty.
My cooktop is fifteen years old. Is it worth fixing?
Depends on what failed. An element, a limiter, a switch, an electrode or a spark module is worth doing at that age. A glass assembly or an induction power module for a unit that old may no longer be made, and then a new unit is the only route. The technician tells you which it is, with the $89 credited toward the repair if you go ahead.
Do you install cooktops, including gas ones?
Yes. Cooktop installation is part of the work: setting the unit in the cutout, connecting the gas supply and checking every fitting for leaks, lighting each burner to check the flame, or wiring an electric unit to the junction box under the counter. A unit that needs a new gas line or a heavier circuit run to it needs that done first, and the technician tells you so before anything is cut.
Near you
Cooktop repair, town by town
- Appliance repair in Alexandria Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Annandale Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Arlington Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Ashburn Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Bethesda Maryland
- Appliance repair in Burke Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Centreville Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Chantilly Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Chevy Chase Maryland
- Appliance repair in Fairfax Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Fairfax Station Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Falls Church Northern Virginia
Cooktop not doing its job?
Someone answers now. The visit is $89, credited to the repair, and most days we are out the same day.