Residential and commercial
Range Repair in Northern Virginia, DC & Maryland
A range is the cooktop and the oven in one body, and the two halves fail in different ways. The burners up top stop lighting or stay cold. The oven underneath stops heating, runs the wrong temperature, or locks its door. FixDaddy's range repair covers gas, electric, induction and dual-fuel models, freestanding and slide-in, across Northern Virginia, Washington DC and the Maryland suburbs. We work on Samsung, GE, LG, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Frigidaire, Viking and Thermador ranges, and most days we can come the same day.
- $89 visit, credited to the repair
- 90-day parts & labor warranty
- Same-day most days
- Someone answers 24/7
What usually goes wrong
Range problems, in the order we see them
The symptom you notice, and what it most probably is.
- 1
Gas oven will not heat; the igniter glows but the burner never lights
Most probably
- A tired igniter: it glows, but no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve
- An igniter that has cracked and does not glow at all
- The oven safety valve, the part that releases gas once the igniter is hot, stays shut
- A thermal fuse, the overheat cut-out, blew during a self-clean cycle
- The control board or thermostat is not sending power to the igniter
- 2
Electric oven will not heat, or takes forever to preheat
Most probably
- The bake element, the bottom one, has burned through. Look for a blister, a crack or a bright spot
- Broil works and bake does not: the bake element, or the relay that switches it
- Half of the 240-volt supply is lost at the breaker or outlet, so the clock works but nothing heats
- A scorched wire or terminal where the element plugs in
- A relay on the control board that no longer closes
- 3
Oven runs cold, runs hot, or shuts off before it reaches the set temperature
Most probably
- The temperature sensor, a thin probe inside the oven, has drifted and reports the wrong heat
- A bake element or igniter that still heats, but weakly, so the oven never catches up
- A door that no longer seals because the hinges are worn or the gasket has flattened
- A convection fan that is not turning, which leaves hot and cold corners
- A control board that misreads a good sensor and ends the cycle early
- 4
A gas burner clicks and clicks but never lights
Most probably
- A wet or crusted spark electrode, the white ceramic tip by the burner, after a boil-over or a wipe-down
- The burner cap is sitting off-center, or the small ports around the burner are clogged with food
- A cracked electrode, or a failed spark module, the box that sends spark to every burner
- A burner gas valve that is not opening: there is spark, but no gas to light
- 5
Burners click on their own, even with every knob off
Most probably
- Moisture in the spark switches behind the knobs, usually after cleaning or a spill. It often dries out in a day
- A spark switch that has shorted and keeps calling for spark
- A spark module that fires by itself
- 6
An electric surface element stays cold
Most probably
- On a coil range, a burned-out coil, the kind that lifts out and plugs in
- A scorched socket under the coil, in which case a new coil alone will not fix it
- On a glass top, a radiant element under the glass that has burned open, or its heat limiter
- A worn burner switch behind the knob, the part that sets how hard the element works
- On an induction range, a pan that is not magnetic, or a failed power board under that zone
- 7
The control panel is dead, locked out, or showing a fault code
Most probably
- Check first: the control lock or child lock, which gets switched on by accident
- Dead right after a self-clean: the thermal fuse opened and cut power to the board
- A control board that has failed, often after a power surge
- A touch keypad that has stopped registering your fingers
- A loose ribbon cable between the keypad and the board
- 8
The oven door will not close, will not lock, or is stuck locked after self-clean
Most probably
- Stuck after self-clean: the oven may simply be too hot still. The lock releases once it has cooled
- Still locked when cold: the door lock motor or its switch failed in the self-clean heat
- Will not close tight: worn hinges that no longer pull the door in
- A door gasket that has flattened or torn
- 9
The convection fan is noisy, or the oven bakes unevenly with it on
Most probably
- A worn bearing in the fan motor, which grinds or squeals as the fan spins
- A fan blade warped by heat or caked with grease, so it runs out of balance and rattles
- A motor that has seized, so the fan never turns and the bake goes uneven
- A relay on the control board that no longer switches the fan on
By brand
Range brands we work with
Independent repair for every major make. We are not affiliated with or authorized by any manufacturer.
Range repair by brand
Samsung range repair
Samsung ranges show trouble in three ways: a control panel that throws a code and locks you out, an oven that bakes well below its setting (the temperature sensor or the bake element), and a surface element that stays cold. On slide-in double-oven models a failed control board can take out the lower oven alone.
Samsung appliance repairGE range repair
On GE electric ranges, dead surface elements and a slow preheat tend to arrive together, and the oven may shut off before it reaches temperature. Coil burners burn out and simply lift out for a new one. On GE gas ranges the lower oven igniter of double-oven models goes first; a shorted spark module and an oven sensor that reads cold are the other two.
GE appliance repairViking range repair
On a Viking Professional range, several burners clicking with no flame is usually one failed spark module, since a single module feeds them all. Spark but no flame points at the gas valves, which was the fault on 36-inch Viking Professionals in Falls Church and Great Falls. Each oven has its own igniter, so one oven can go cold while the other cooks on.
Viking appliance repairKitchenAid range repair
On KitchenAid gas ranges the oven igniter is the usual culprit: it glows, the gas never lights, and the oven stays cold while the burners work. Burners that keep sparking after they light, and an oven temperature that drifts, are the other two complaints. On dual-fuel KitchenAids the oven is electric, so look to the element or the sensor instead.
KitchenAid appliance repairMaytag range repair
Maytag ranges are built by Whirlpool and fail in plain, fixable ways. On gas models a surface burner clicks and never catches: the igniter, its wire or the spark switch. On electric models a burner stays cold because the element, or the switch behind its knob, has failed. In the oven it is the bake element on electric models, the glow igniter on gas.
Maytag appliance repairFrigidaire range repair
On Frigidaire ranges the electronic oven control, the clock unit, has the reputation: it beeps with a fault code, overheats the oven, or goes blank. Electric models burn through bake elements; gas models wear out oven igniters. When burners and oven quit together on a gas Frigidaire, as on one in Falls Church, suspect what they share: gas supply or power.
Frigidaire appliance repairLG range repair
On LG's ProBake convection ranges the main oven element sits behind the back wall with the fan, not on the oven floor. When it fails there is nothing to see: the oven stops short of its setting or shows a heating error. On gas LG ranges it is the oven igniter. We also install LG ranges and heat-test every element before leaving.
LG appliance repair
The visit
What happens when the technician comes
Have the model number ready if you can: the plate is inside the storage drawer or on the frame you see with the oven door open. It tells us which igniter, element or board to bring.
Before the visit, let the range cool, take the pots off the top and empty the bottom drawer. Burner and front-panel work happens in place. On many gas ranges the control board, gas valve and fan motor are reached from behind, so the range is slid forward; clear the floor in front of it. Afterwards it goes back onto its anti-tip bracket.
A single part such as an igniter, an element or a spark module is typically under an hour of work. A board or a glass top is ordered and fitted on a return trip. You hear the full price before anything is started, and the $89 visit fee counts toward it.
What waiting costs you
An oven igniter that is fading does not recover. Preheats get longer, then the oven lights late with a bang, which is gas catching after it has built up; stop using the oven at that point. A burner that clicks all day wears out the spark module, so one failed switch becomes two failed parts. A scorched coil socket keeps burning the ends off new elements until the socket is changed too. A door that does not seal makes the oven run longer for every meal and pours heat at the knobs and controls above it.
$89 visit, credited to the repair. 90-day parts-and-labor warranty.
Repair or replace
Repair your range, or replace it?
Repair it when
- One ordinary part failed: an igniter, a bake or surface element, a sensor, a spark module, a switch, a hinge or a door lock.
- It is younger than its expected service life, roughly 15 years for a gas range and 13 for an electric one.
- It is a pro-style gas range such as a Viking: single serviceable parts in a heavy body, worth fixing well past that age.
- It is a slide-in that fits your countertop, where a different model may leave gaps or need the counter trimmed.
- The control board failed, but it is still made for your model.
Replace it when
- The control board, or an induction power board, has failed and is no longer made for your model.
- The glass cooktop is cracked and a new top costs more than half the price of a comparable new range.
- Two or three faults arrived together on a range near the end of its service life.
- The oven cavity or the burner box is rusted through, or the oven's enamel lining has cracked.
Hookups matter if you replace. A gas range runs on a 120-volt outlet; electric, induction and dual-fuel ranges need a 240-volt circuit, so trading gas for induction means an electrician, not just a delivery. If you are weighing the two fuels, see electric vs gas range.
Gas, electric, induction and dual fuel: four ranges, four ways to fail
A gas range plugs into a normal 120-volt outlet; the electricity only runs the igniters and the controls. Its faults are igniters, spark modules, spark switches and gas valves. An electric range runs on 240 volts, and its faults are elements, the sockets and switches that feed them, the temperature sensor and the control board. An induction range heats the pan itself, so its faults are the pan, the coil under the glass and the power board, the same parts as on our induction cooktop repair page. A dual-fuel range is a gas top over an electric oven and can have either kind of fault. Tell us which you own when you call.
Before you call: four quick checks on a range
A burner that only clicks: let it dry for a day after a spill, then lift the cap, clear the ports with a toothpick and set the cap back dead center. An electric oven with a working clock and no heat: flip the range's double breaker fully off and on. A dead or beeping panel: look for a lock icon and hold the lock key. A door locked after self-clean: let it cool completely, then switch the breaker off for a minute. Clicking with every knob off is not a gas leak, because no gas flows until a knob is opened. Our guide to a stove burner not lighting goes further.
Gas ranges in this area: the supply, the smell, the bracket
Most gas ranges in Washington DC, the Maryland suburbs and Northern Virginia run on Washington Gas, with parts of Fairfax, Loudoun and Prince William counties on Columbia Gas. If you smell gas near the range, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside before you call anyone else, us included. A faint smell each time the oven lights is worth a visit. And any range that gets pulled forward, for a repair, a new floor or a new backsplash, must go back onto its anti-tip bracket, because weight on an open oven door can tip the whole unit. If yours was never fitted, say so when you call.
Recent repairs
Some range repairs we have done
Samsung range repair in Fairfax
Out in Merrifield, a Samsung range kept locking itself out. The controls threw a fault and the oven would not take a command. These tend to go the…Out in Merrifield, a Samsung range kept locking itself out. The controls threw a fault and the oven would not take a command. These tend to go the same way each time: a code on the display, the controls locking out, and an oven that refuses to start.
Samsung range repair in Oakton
The oven on a Samsung range in Oakton was baking well below its set temperature. Ovens that do this usually show one of two other signs: a bake…The oven on a Samsung range in Oakton was baking well below its set temperature. Ovens that do this usually show one of two other signs: a bake element that never glows, or a cycle that shuts off early, long before the oven gets where it was told to go.
Samsung range repair in Woodbridge
The big front element on a Samsung electric range in Woodbridge would only run on high, whatever the knob said. Our technician tested the switch behind that knob,…The big front element on a Samsung electric range in Woodbridge would only run on high, whatever the knob said. Our technician tested the switch behind that knob, found its contacts welded shut, and replaced it. The element now steps down properly for a simmer.
Samsung range repair in Great Falls
A Samsung slide-in double oven range in Great Falls had lost the heat in its lower oven. The fault was a failed control board. Our technician was on-site…A Samsung slide-in double oven range in Great Falls had lost the heat in its lower oven. The fault was a failed control board. Our technician was on-site with the range to deal with it.
Samsung range repair in Falls Church
One burner on a Samsung gas range in Falls Church would not light, and the oven had stopped heating as well. Our technician was out to the freestanding…One burner on a Samsung gas range in Falls Church would not light, and the oven had stopped heating as well. Our technician was out to the freestanding range for both, the cooktop side and the oven side, in one visit.
Google reviews
What people said after a range repair
- SD
Stuart Dornfeld
August 2026 · gas stove
The is my 2nd time using FixDaddy. The first time was to repair my LG washing machine. This time it was to repair my Creda gas stove. Scheduling was easy. They showed up on time. Provided excellent service. I will use them again.
- GH
Gary Hauler
June 2026 · dryer
Very professional service. Quick to respond to request and came when they said. Though I didn't have them fix my issue (I realized I should probably just buy a new dryer as there were some unknowns) there was no hard sell of any extra service.
- KI
Kemale Ismayilli
February 2026 · Bosch dishwasher
I was looking for a local Bosch specialist near me in Arlington, and found FixDaddy. They fixed my Dishwasher on the spot! Super fast and professional. If you need a reliable technician in the DMV, this is the one!
- TW
Troy Wilson
June 2026 · Perlick refrigerator
Scheduled same day service to troubleshoot my Perlick Refrigerator. The technician came out in under 2 hours and diagnosed the problem quickly. Very impressed with the service.
5.0120 reviews
Every review on this page is copied from our public Google profile, word for word.
FAQ
Range repair: frequently asked questions
The oven igniter glows orange but the oven never lights. Is it the igniter?
Almost always. The igniter has two jobs: get hot enough to light gas, and draw enough current to open the safety valve. A tired one still glows but cannot do the second job, so nothing happens. Our visit fee is $89; the technician confirms the fault, gives you the full repair price at your home, and if you go ahead the $89 counts toward the repair.
Can I keep using the burners while the oven is broken?
Usually yes. On most ranges the cooktop and the oven work off separate parts, so a dead oven igniter or bake element leaves the burners alone; our oven repair page covers those two faults. The exceptions are a gas smell, a range that trips the breaker, or a control panel that is dead. In those cases stop using it until it is looked at.
My oven door locked after self-clean and will not open. What now?
Let it cool completely, which can take an hour or more, because the lock will not release while the cavity is hot. Then turn the range's breaker off for a minute and back on. If it is still locked, the lock motor, its switch or the thermal fuse failed during the cycle, and that is a repair we do.
Is it worth repairing a range that is more than 12 years old?
If one ordinary part failed, an igniter, an element, a sensor, a switch, then yes, on almost any brand. If the control board is gone and the range is near the end of its life, or two or three things failed together, replacing usually makes more sense. The technician tells you which on the spot, with the full repair price, and you decide.
Do you carry range parts on the truck?
Common ones, yes: igniters, bake elements, temperature sensors and spark parts for the brands we see most. If your range needs something else, it is ordered and the technician comes back to fit it. Either way, every repair carries a 90-day parts-and-labor warranty.
Do you work on induction and dual-fuel ranges, or only gas and electric?
All four. Induction ranges are mostly electronics, a coil and a power board under the glass; dual-fuel ranges are a gas cooktop over an electric oven, so they can have either kind of fault. Tell us which type you have when you call so the technician knows where to start.
The burners click even when everything is off. Is that dangerous?
It is a nuisance, not a leak. No gas flows while the knobs are off; a wet or shorted spark switch is simply telling the module to spark. Dry the area around the knobs and the burners and give it a day. If it keeps clicking, the switch has failed and needs replacing. Our gas stove repair page goes through the burner faults one by one.
Do you repair a range in a rental unit or a business?
Yes, when it is a home-type range. Our commercial appliance repair covers ranges in rentals, short-term lets, offices and apartment buildings, for landlords and property managers too. We do not repair restaurant cooking equipment. Someone answers the phone 24/7, and most days we can come the same day.
Near you
Range repair, town by town
- Appliance repair in Alexandria Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Annandale Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Arlington Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Ashburn Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Bethesda Maryland
- Appliance repair in Burke Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Centreville Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Chantilly Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Chevy Chase Maryland
- Appliance repair in Fairfax Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Fairfax Station Northern Virginia
- Appliance repair in Falls Church Northern Virginia
Range not doing its job?
Someone answers now. The visit is $89, credited to the repair, and most days we are out the same day.